Anyone planning an island escape in Southeast Asia faces a tricky decision – in a region studded with sand-circled tropical islands that sizzle with fabulous food and overflow with culture, how do you pick just one?
This magical part of the world has enough island escapes to fill several lifetimes of travel, but regrettably, we only have one, so the shortlist has to be narrowed down. For a first taste of Southeast Asia’s islands, we’d make a strong pitch for Phuket in Thailand and Bali in Indonesia – both are rich in culture, wrapped in sparkling sands and accessible to everyone from students in flipflops to empty-nesters catching up on far-flung travel.
But which to choose… Luckily, we have a pair of seasoned travel writers on hand to make the case for each of these beloved island hubs. Read on to see if Phuket or Bali is the right escape for you.
Favor fabulous Phuket
Isabella Noble is a Barcelona-based travel journalist and the author of Lonely Planet’s Pocket Phuket guide. She has been spending time on this beautiful, sometimes underappreciated Thai island for almost a decade.
For anyone who loves Phuket – as I do – it’s a magical island that instantly defies the stereotypes without making any fuss. Thailand bursts with dreamy, laid-back, palm-filled islands washed by gentle turquoise waves, but Phuket (pronounced poo-ket) combines this tropical-paradise allure with the lively buzz, creative vibe and thrilling food scene of a dynamic urban hub.
Let’s start with those fabulous, flour-soft, salt-white beaches. My favorites are in the north of the island, including sparkling Hat Surin, endless Hat Bang Thao and wilder Hat Layan. Phuket’s three northwesternmost strands are a treat too: Hat Nai Yang, Hat Mai Khao and Hat Nai Thon all sit within the protected Sirinat National Park and have a blissfully relaxed, nature-first feel.
On the island’s southern tip, mellow Hat Rawai is another beachy beauty that I seek out on every visit. It’s known for its rustic seafood restaurants, buzzing kitesurfing scene and the powdery strands close by at Hat Nai Han. Blazing sunsets draw crowds to dramatic Laem Phromthep (Promthep Cape) and there’s an almost mystical feel as everyone simultaneously gazes out as the sun drops into the jade-colored Andaman Sea.
Phuket’s vibrant food scene
Phuket also has one of Thailand’s most irresistible food scenes, born from the mingling of Southeast Asian and Chinese cultures over the centuries (known here as Baba culture). The arty island capital, Phuket Town, is the culinary epicenter. A tin-mining hub in the 19th and 20th centuries, it’s filled with candy-colored Sino-Portuguese buildings, restored vintage shophouses and hidden shrines that burst into life during the September/October Vegetarian Festival.
I like popping into the Lock Tien food court, where Phuketian classics like mee hokkien (Hokkien noodles) and just-made spring rolls are served at plastic tables, or grabbing flaky roti bread topped with a fried egg at the always-popular Thai-Muslim breakfast spots on Thalang Rd. Long-running Mee Ton Poe is locally loved for its noodle dishes; Kopitiam does Phuket-style Thai classics; and Raya prepares its popular coconutty crab curry in a tile-covered Sino-Portuguese house.
On the fine-dining side, try the contemporary Sardinian delights dreamt up by superstar chef Alessandro Frau at Acqua; the elevated Phuketian flavors of Patong’s gorgeous, garden-facing Ta Khai; Cherngtalay’s elegant Suay for chef Noi Tammasak’s arty twist on Thai cuisine; or Michelin-starred PRU in northern Phuket. There’s plenty to enjoy on the local coffee scene, too, with hipster-style hangouts such as Phuket Town’s The Shelter Coffee and Bookhemian easily rivaling Chiang Mai’s famously cool cafe culture.
I’ve happily spent time in Phuket with my brother, my partner and many friends over the years, but also as a solo female traveler. Whether you fancy a beachfront yoga class, heading out on a diving trip, visiting Buddhist temples (such as 150-year-old Wat Chalong) or perhaps tackling the sport of muay Thai (Thai boxing), Phuket’s activity calendar has it, and all kinds of travelers can expect a warm welcome here.
A signature Phuket highlight is escaping into gorgeous Ao Pha-Nga Marine National Park. Kayaking or paddle-boarding is the most rewarding, low-impact way to explore this bewitching bay dotted with limestone karst formations. Day trips to Ko Phi-Phi – where travelers are permitted to visit gorgeous Maya Bay under strict conservation rules – are perfectly doable, too.
And did you know there’s also great hiking in Phuket? Rewarding routes include the sweaty, jungle-traversing climb up to the 45m (150ft) Big Buddha in the Nakkerd Hills near Kata, as well as paths through the wild rainforests of northern Phuket’s Khao Phra Thaew Royal Wildlife & Forest Reserve – home to the pioneering Gibbon Rehabilitation Project.
Beachfront bliss
Nowhere does seductive beach hotels (or heavenly spas) like Phuket. You could go all out with a deluxe stay at one of Thailand’s top hideaways, such as Amanpuri, Trisara, The Surin Phuket or Rosewood Phuket. There are also fun, sociable hostels and design-forward boutique hotels, particularly in Phuket Town (Casa Blanca is a joy), alongside mellow beachside guesthouses in places such as west-coast Kamala.
Yet when I’m longing for this delicious island, I think of an early-morning stroll through Phuket Town, a plastic plate of steaming noodles at a toes-in-the-sand beach shack, or a soul-stirring swim in turquoise waves backed by rippling casuarinas. This is what Phuket is all about. No wonder the island has drawn people from all over the world for centuries.
It’d better be Bali
If Mark Eveleigh were told he could only travel in one country for the rest of his life, he’d choose Indonesia. This widely traveled journalist and author has written for numerous publications; check out his travel book, Kopi Dulu: 15,000km through Indonesia.
Overcrowded and overdeveloped? Or the world’s most beautiful island? I lean toward the latter.
The fabled “Island of the Gods,” Bali certainly sees its fair share of tourists. The town of Ubud, a famous yoga haven and art capital, has its dedicated devotees – as does Uluwatu, with its sublime temple and adrenaline-pumping surf. Kuta was once party central, even if the night owls are now heading to the beach clubs and cool cafes of Seminyak and booming Canggu.
Alongside five-star resorts such as Raffles and the Four Seasons that sprawl through tropical gardens and spill onto talcum-powder beaches, visitors can stay in a host of exciting new designer places, such as Lost Lindenberg and Nirjhara. And even as demand soars, you can still rent a simple, comfortable room with a private balcony overlooking a tropical garden for under $10 per night, breakfast included.
So, yes, tourism might be booming here. But on an island that’s over 10 times the size of Phuket, it’s still astoundingly easy to find an unspoiled corner.
Captivating culture and beguiling beaches
I’m a big fan of Thailand and have worked on many assignments in that wonderful country. But the colorful cast of gods and demons, ghosts and witches that play such a large part in traditional Balinese life fascinate me – so much, in fact, that they became central characters in my latest novel. Indeed, it’s the Balinese people that make the island uniquely appealing – not to mention one of the most culturally intriguing spots in the world.
When it comes to beaches, Bali and Phuket both boast palm-shaded white-sand beaches that make visitors drool. But only Bali has a law stipulating that no buildings can be tall enough to rise over those palm trees. Even the most congested tourist centers here have been spared from high-rise, Thai-style cityscapes.
In addition to the dreamy white beaches around Nusa Dua and the Bukit Peninsula, there are also romantic volcanic beaches where you can stroll for miles across a surface that shimmers like a black mirror, without seeing another holidaymaker. If you enjoy dramatic wave-smashed coastlines (and some of the world’s best surfing) then you should stick to the south coast; if you prefer tranquil reefs that lure dolphins, turtles and other marine life, head to the sheltered north coast.
An island of natural delights
When you’ve had enough of beaches, Bali’s volcanic highlands offer a smorgasbord of activities that little Phuket could barely dream of. The sunrise climb up 1717m (5633ft) Gunung Batur might be – justifiably – the most popular tour on the island, along with the trip to Ubud’s Monkey Forest.
Inland, you can also cycle downhill for 40km (25 miles), go whitewater rafting or explore jungles and peaks on foot, by horse or even by helicopter. In the island’s unspoiled “wild west,” you can walk with pink buffalo or visit what might be the planet’s most photogenic traditional fishing fleet.
The arid hillsides of Northern Bali are planted with cashew, dragon fruit and (surprisingly) even vineyards. To the south, the slopes are dominated by the giant stairways of terraced paddies, in places running right down the ocean.
I fell in love with Bali some two decades ago, and my ideal writing retreat is tucked away on the remote western side of the island. Every time I go back, I realize anew that West Bali might be the most achingly beautiful place on the planet.
This third of the island remains almost entirely overlooked by visitors; even the islanders themselves are often astounded to hear that West Bali National Park has deserted beaches where wild deer trot through the shallows, and jungle-clad hills that shelter hornbills, flying foxes and slender langur monkeys.
There are lots of places in the world with plenty to occupy you for a two-week vacation. Twenty years after my first visit to Bali, I’m still convinced that there’s enough here to keep me busy for a lifetime.
This article was first published Apr 6, 2023 and updated Oct 10, 2024.
