Croatia’s original island hot spot, Hvar lies off the central Dalmatian coast – a beautiful, glamorous and sun-soaked place surrounded by the shimmering blue waters of the Adriatic.
Seen from above, the island appears as a long, tapering ribbon circled by wildly indented coastline – blooming at one end into a sprawling peninsula, and splintering into a string of sun-bleached rocky islets.
Toward the western tip of the island, Hvar Town has long been a mecca for Croatia’s rich and fabulous, with the hotels and restaurants, photogenic old-town square and stacks of charm to match. But beyond the glamor, the rest of the island offers green spaces and rocky coves, scenic backroads perfect for cycling, jewel-like islets, traditional culture, lavender fields, and nuggets of history stretching back some two-and-a-half-millennia.
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And all this is just a short hop, skip and speedy catamaran journey from Split.
When should I go to Hvar?
With a couple of caveats, Hvar is a year-round destination – and claims to be the sunniest island in Croatia, with well over 2700 hours of sunshine per year. (Yes, that figure was carefully recorded as far back as the mid-19th century by a local meteorologist.) Still, if you want to relax, we’d recommend avoiding the midsummer peak season of July and especially August. This is when Hvar gets very busy indeed (August is when many Croatians take their summer holiday), and prices are at their highest.
Look at visiting in the shoulder seasons for a more relaxing time. The spring and autumn months are beautiful in central and southern Dalmatia: you can expect plenty of sunny weather, the water is still warm enough for swimming, the island is less busy, and prices are lower.
Winter is not the best time to visit, unless you like things very quiet. You won’t find many other tourists, it’s true – but many hotels and restaurants close for winter.
How much time should I spend on Hvar?
Aim to spend at least three days on Hvar – preferably five days if you want to do the island justice, and have time to explore beyond Hvar Town itself. While there aren’t a huge number of world-famous sights and museums to take in, Hvar is a place that’s tailor-made for slowing down and exploring by bike. Spend time on the beach, saunter through the atmospheric streets of Hvar’s towns and villages, and enjoy the sunset over an impeccably crafted cocktail.
Five days based in Hvar Town would give you enough time to visit Stari Grad, Stari Grad Plain and Vrboska – easily combined into one day trip. You could also take a boat over to the Pakleni Islands, set out on a hike or bike ride on Sv Nikola, or even make a day trip all the way over to Brač, without sacrificing time in Hvar Town itself.
Is it easy to get to and around Hvar?
The main gateway to Hvar is the UNESCO-listed city of Split, on the mainland – from where multiple catamaran and ferry services depart several times a day. (Buy catamaran tickets in advance, as they can get fully booked out, especially in the summer.) The main routes are Split–Hvar Town, with fast catamarans operated by Jadrolinija, Krilo and TP Line, with a journey time of around 75 minutes; and the Jadrolinija ferry between Split and Stari Grad.
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There’s also a catamaran from Split to Vira (reintroduced in 2024, the route includes a shuttle bus from Vira to Hvar Town), while car ferries run between Drvenik on the mainland and Sućuraj at the eastern tip of the island. Hvar is also well connected to other islands in central and southern Dalmatia, with many of the ferry and catamaran routes from Split also calling at the neighboring islands of Brač, Korčula and Vis, as well as continuing further afield to Lastovo and Mljet. Such connectivity makes this one of the easiest and most enjoyable parts of the Croatian Adriatic to explore by ferry.
Once on Hvar, regular buses run between Hvar Town, Stari Grad and Vrboska, as well as to Jelsa (you can find up-to-date timetables here). You’ll also find several places where you can hire bikes or e-bikes (try Outdoor Hvar or Hvar Life). Split is Croatia’s second-busiest airport, with flights to all over Europe and beyond, and it’s also well connected to the rest of Croatia by bus, and by train from Zagreb.
Top things to do in Hvar
Soak up the ambiance in Hvar Town
No visit to Hvar would be complete without time spent in Hvar Town – for many, one of the absolute highlights of any visit to the Croatian coast and islands. At the heart of the town is St Stephen’s Square – the largest square in Dalmatia, with the imposing St Stephen’s Cathedral at one end, the harbor at the other. The restored Arsenal is now home to the Hvar Gallery of Modern Art – and is also famous as the location of the first public theater in Europe, established in 1612. Stroll up to the 16th-century fortress, which has the best views of the town.
A large part of Hvar’s charm is its overall atmosphere – so don’t skimp on time wandering its narrow stone-paved streets and alleys, and pausing for a coffee, a glass of wine or a sundowner with a view of the sublime waterfront.
Set off for the Pakleni Islands
If it’s the ultimate, picture-perfect view of the Croatian Adriatic you’re after – think small, low islands cloaked in patches of dark Mediterranean vegetation, and fringed by sun-bleached rocky beaches lapped by some of the most breathtakingly clear waters imaginable – this might be it. Scattered off the coast opposite Hvar Town, the Pakleni Islands are a wonderful place to escape to, with no shortage of idyllic coves and beaches, plus a handful of cafes and bars.
Just don’t expect to have them to yourself: the Pakleni Islands are hugely popular, and are also home to Carpe Diem Beach, the spiritual home of Croatia’s summer clubbing scene. The largest of the islands is Sveti Klement, which has three small villages – but it’s Marinkovac that most people head to, with its gorgeous Ždrilca bay and Mline Beach. Taxi boats head out to the islands at least once every half an hour from the waterfront in Hvar Town. (These go to different islands, so check that it’s going to the one you want.)
Feel the sweep of history in Stari Grad
The Greeks founded Stari Grad – which they named Pharos (whence Hvar) – in 384 BCE. What you see today is a pretty waterfront town with plenty of Venetian architecture, wrapped around the head of a deep, well-protected natural inlet. Don’t miss Tvrdalj Hektorović – a fortified Renaissance villa that once belonged to the 16th-century Croatian poet and writer Petar Hektorović. The villa has a stone fish pool, surrounded by arcades and still filled with mullet swimming languidly among shafts of sunlight, with a beautifully peaceful garden beyond. There are inscriptions carved in stone all over the place; the prominent one around the fish pool translates very roughly as “neither riches nor worldly fame can save you – death takes us all.”
Pedal slowly across the Stari Grad Plain
Driving or cycling across the center of the island, you’d be forgiven for not realizing you’re passing through a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Stari Grad Plain – a broad sweep of orchards and olive groves, vineyards and gardens, all divided by a neat web of dry stone walls – was first cultivated by the island’s Greek colonists back in the 4th century BCE. The landscape remains little changed since that time, even down to the unit of measurement dividing the plots of land (the ancient-Greek chora). The area is best enjoyed as part of a bike ride between Stari Grad and Vrboska.
Admire the fishing boats in Vrboska
This pretty fishing village on the north coast of the island is a far cry from the bustle and the glitz of Hvar Town. Vrboska is set on a narrow inlet spanned by a particularly photogenic old stone bridge – and the nearby Soline peninsula has some particularly nice pebble and shingle beaches.
Try your hand at traditional lace making
Hvar is famous for its traditional lace making – one of three places in Croatia (the others are Pag and Lepoglava) that helped land this fabulously intricate art form on the UNESCO list of Intangible Cultural Heritage. What sets the lace from Hvar apart is that it’s made exclusively by the island’s Benedictine nuns, from fibers taken from the agave plant. If the prices for authentic pieces are higher than you were expecting, bear in mind that it can take months of work to complete a single piece of lace. Such quality is worth it.
Smell Hvar’s glorious lavender fields
Hvar is sometimes called the “lavender island,” with fields of this wonderfully scented plant particularly around the village of Velo Grablje. There’s an annual lavender festival, held in July, and lavender oil and dried lavender are among the most familiar souvenirs of the island.
My favorite thing to do on Hvar
The view from the fortress above Hvar Town might be popular – but the real showstopper is the view from Sv Nikola. The highest point on the island, Sv Nikola offers absolutely stunning views out across the islands of Korčula and Lastovo, and of the Pelješaac peninsula – and on a very clear day you might even catch a glimpse of the distant coast of Italy. It’s an easy two-hour hike to the 628m (1732ft) summit, starting in the village of Dol and following a 4×4 road for most of the way, with some shade provided initially by scattered Mediterranean forest. The last few minutes are on a rocky path that leads up to a huge cross; there’s a simple konoba (restaurant) nearby. Sv Nikola also makes a good outing with mountain bikes; you’ll have leave your bikes toward the top and walk up the last bit to the summit.
How much money do I need for Hvar?
Staying in Hvar doesn’t come cheap. Indeed, it’s become one of the most expensive places in Croatia (if still less than Dubrovnik) – and prices are definitely creeping ever higher. Remember that you’ll find wallet-friendlier prices in the shoulder season.
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Double room in a hotel in Hvar Town (July/August) €300 (US$327)
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One-bedroom apartment in Hvar Town (July/August) €150 (US$163)
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Main course (seafood) at a restaurant in Hvar Town €30–50 (US$33–55)
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Pizza in Hvar Town €17 (US$19)
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Local beer (0.5l) €5 (US$5.50)
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Cocktail €12–17 (US$13–19)
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One-way catamaran ticket between Split and Hvar: €25 (US$27)
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Water taxi from Hvar Town to the Pakleni Islands: €10 (US$11)
The summer sun is intense on Hvar
You can expect plenty sunshine on Hvar, and temperatures upward of 30°C (86°+F) in July and August – so don’t forget to bring sunblock and a sun hat, and make sure you carry enough water if you go for a hike or a bike ride.
Bring a refillable water bottle
The tap water on the island is absolutely fine to drink, so bring a refillable flask and avoid buying plastic water bottles since not all of them are going to end up in the recycling bin.
