A recent review published in the scientific journal Cosmetics explores the potential of exosomes in skin care and cosmetics, offering promise and challenges.
Conducted by researchers from the Universidad Autónoma de Baja California and Centro de Medicina de Precisión in Tijuana, Mexico, the study was funded by the Facultad de Ciencias de la Ingeniería y Tecnología at the Universidad Autónoma de Baja California.
Overview
Exosomes are small vesicles released by cells that carry bioactive molecules such as proteins, lipids, and nucleic acids, playing a critical role in intercellular communication and tissue repair. The study provides a comprehensive review of existing research, with a focus on their applications in cosmetics.
“Exosomes have remarkable potential for enhancing skin health and rejuvenation,” the researchers wrote, citing their roles in “skin rejuvenation, anti-aging, hydration, pigmentation correction, wound healing, and customized skin care.” The findings reveal that exosomes are effective in topical and injectable forms and hold promise for use in plastic surgery.
Key findings
Skin hydration
One of the most validated applications of exosomes in cosmetics is their role in skin hydration. According to the study, “Exosomes enhance keratinocyte proliferation, improve the function of the skin barrier, and reduce TEWL (transepidermal water loss), which helps retain moisture.”
Clinical studies using exosome-based serums and creams demonstrated “increased hydration levels and improved barrier integrity within two to four weeks of consistent use.” These results are particularly encouraging for individuals with dry or sensitive skin, as exosome treatments restore hydration without causing the irritation often associated with synthetic additives.
Hyperpigmentation control
The study also highlights exosomes’ potential in controlling hyperpigmentation. “Topical formulations containing exosomes derived from MSCs (mesenchymal stem cells) and keratinocytes have shown promise in reducing melanin synthesis and correcting uneven skin tone,” the authors noted.
A clinical trial using MSC-derived exosome creams showed a “decrease in hyperpigmented lesions and an improvement in skin radiance within eight weeks.” These depigmenting effects are attributed to the suppression of MITF signaling and the downregulation of melanogenic enzymes like tyrosinase.
However, researchers emphasize the need for further trials to validate exosome-based treatments’ long-term safety and efficacy for pigmentation disorders.
Wound healing and anti-aging
The regenerative properties of exosomes also extend to wound healing and anti-aging applications. “Exosomes can deliver growth factors and other bioactive molecules to enhance tissue repair, scar improvement, and skin rejuvenation,” researchers stated.
The potential for freeze-dried exosome products that remain stable at room temperature is particularly appealing, though further evaluation is required.
Implementation challenges
Despite their promise, exosome-based cosmetics face significant challenges. “Standardization in exosome isolation, characterization, and delivery remains a major hurdle,” the researchers wrote.
Variability in exosome quality due to differences in cell sources, isolation methods, and storage conditions can affect clinical outcomes. Moreover, studies often lack consistency in treatment doses, durations, and endpoints, complicating regulatory approval.
The researchers noted that “most studies have been conducted on small sample sizes and over relatively short durations (four to twelve weeks).” Large-scale, double-blind, placebo-controlled trials are essential to confirm long-term benefits and potential side effects.
Regulatory bodies like the FDA and EMA currently lack comprehensive guidelines for exosome-based cosmetic products, further slowing their adoption. “Exosomes blur the line between cosmetics and biologics, raising concerns regarding their classification, safety testing, and approval processes,” the study explained.
Ethical considerations, particularly regarding human-derived exosomes from embryonic or fetal tissue, also warrant careful attention.
Future directions
To advance the field, the researchers advocated for improving manufacturing standardization, enhancing delivery systems, and conducting robust clinical trials. “The use of engineered exosomes, tailored to deliver specific bioactive molecules for targeted skin benefits, represents a future direction with significant potential.”
Additionally, plant- or synthetic-derived exosome mimetics could address ethical and regulatory concerns while maintaining efficacy.
Exosomes hold immense potential to shift the current landscape of cosmetics and skin care, particularly in hydration, pigmentation, and anti-aging applications. However, the study concluded, “Overcoming challenges related to standardization, regulation, and public acceptance will be critical for the widespread adoption of exosome-based cosmetic therapies.”
Source: Cosmetics; 2025, 12, 9. doi: 10.3390/cosmetics12010009; “Use of Exosomes for Cosmetics Applications.” Authors: Villarreal-Gómez, L.J., et al.
