The Korean culinary scene is diverse, an amalgamation of traditional ingredients, imported flavors and experimental fusions. With so many quality restaurants in Seoul, the odds are that even the most unprepared visitor will randomly stumble into something delicious – particularly when it comes to the not-so-social media-driven mom-and-pop shops. If you’d like some direction, though, here are some of my favorites, both for getting together with friends and going solo.
Breakfast
Because most Koreans eat the same foods for breakfast that they have for lunch and dinner – rice, soup and banchan (side dishes) – there isn’t much that distinguishes a Korean breakfast spot from any other Korean eatery, aside from it being open at the appropriate time of day. That said, Western-style breakfast and brunch are popular for weekend meals with friends, and my go-to is the Australian brunch cafe Sunday Arvo. Tucked away in the hilly alleys south of Namsan Park, this spot serves up excellent eggs benedict and blueberry pancakes. Walking around Seoul, you’ll notice bagels are trending here, and for that, my favorite is SF Bagels in Yeonnam. One of the first on Seoul’s bagel scene, SF is known for its delicious, daily-made organic sourdough bagels, accompanied by cream cheese spreads and fruit compotes. There’s no seating, so take your bagel to go and enjoy it in nearby Yeontral Park.
Coffee
Coffee is everywhere in Seoul – I mean everywhere – with a concept cafe to suit any mood, so it’s not hard to find a good cup of brew (unless it’s before 9am, in which case you’re probably going to have to settle for a chain). In Haebangchon, I like hole-in-the-wall Le Cafe; with just a few tables and a friendly owner-barista, it’s a cozy, relaxing setting to take a beat from a busy day. Over in Yeonnam, there’s Coffee Nap Roasters, notable for its uniquely designed floor that transitions, brick by brick, into a seating area. Fritz Coffee Company is another popular roastery, now with five locations (the first being in Mapo-gu), that’s known for not only its quality coffee but also its delicious pastries and bread – get the ham and cheese croissant. Also head to the original location of Anthracite Coffee in an old shoe factory in Hapjeong (there are six total) to try the Butter Fat Trio; with notes of dark chocolate and nuts, it’s one bold choice among its range of literary-named blends.
Lunch
For the perfect homestyle Korean lunch, head over to Nan in Hapjeong, which serves a simple set menu of the day (check their IG in advance), including a main, rice and banchan. Or, you can never go wrong with Myeongdong Kyoja: its kalguksu are some of the best knife-cut noodles in Seoul. When I’m in Haebangchon, a stop at either Morococo or Casablanca Sandwicherie is almost mandatory for me. This restaurant duo – located opposite one another – is run by the same owner, and they serve up some of the tastiest North African bites in the city: dig into Moroccan-spiced chicken, lamb, shrimp and vegan plates at Morococo, or indulge sandwich-style at Casablanca. Both are casual walk-in restaurants, and if one is full, just cross the street to the other.
Snack
Korean street food is amazing, and for me, there’s no superior snack than stopping at a sidewalk vendor. For tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes), head to Sindang Tteokbokki Town, an area of tteokbokki eateries that has been around since the 1970s. For twikim (deep fried vegetables and more), I like Gongdeok Market. Other favorite street snacks are mandu, kimbap (rice rolls), gyeranppang (egg bread) and hotteok (pancakes with sweet filling), which you can find in Myeongdong, Hongdae or most any traditional market like Namdaemun, Gwangjang and Tongin.
Dinner
There are plenty of options for a hearty, satisfying and even Michelin-star dinner that doesn’t break the bank: 17-hour simmered bone-broth soup at Imun Seolnongtang (tucked away down an alley in Jongno-gu), North Korean-style cold buckwheat noodles at Jinmi Pyeongyang Naengmyeon, handmade dumplings at Gaeseong Mandu Koong and K-BBQ at Geumdwaeji Sikdang (a blink-and-you’ll miss it spot in Jung-gu that doesn’t accept reservations) – just to name a few. I also love going to Sinheung Market, the one-time textile center turned buzzy dining scene, where it’s fun to mosey around the maze of alleys and stairways. If you’re in the mood for Thai, you can’t do better than Pad Ka Paw, where the chive pancakes are divine, or its equally impressive sister restaurant, Ginn Laoo – both run by the charismatic Sriprateep Paw, who might break out the guitar if you’re lucky.
Bar
Korean alcohol is undergoing a resurgence, with bars, distilleries and bottle shops all across the city coming out with interesting twists on old time-honored liquors. For makgeolli (Korean milky rice wine) my favorite is Mr. Ahn’s craft makgeolli on Gyeongridan, where its super seasonal menu of anju (snacks eaten while drinking) offers modern takes on traditional Korean cuisine. Around the corner from Mr. Ahn’s is Namsan Sool Club, which serves up nearly 100 different varieties of Korean craft alcohol by the glass.
The Seoul bar scene features intimate, speakeasy settings that pour a range of innovative cocktails. Some of the best hidden bars in town: Myeongdong Sookhee (beyond the mirror), Jean Frigo (behind a refrigerator door near Dongdaemun Market), The Storage Room (at the back of The Cheese Salon in Seongsu), Boxing Tiger (down a stairway and through an unmarked door in Sinsa) and Le Chamber (behind a bookcase in Cheongdam).
