The Michelin Guide may only just be on its way to Québec but Montréal has long been one of the world’s best cities when it comes to food. Travelers come from far and wide to taste this French-Canadian city’s iconic smoked-meat sandwiches, honey water bagels and poutine (browned fries, squeaky cheese curds and savory gravy).
This culturally diverse corner of Canada has so many options that you could easily enjoy a different cuisine every day and struggle to find better elsewhere. In addition to its trio of legendary dishes, Montréal is becoming just as popular for its spicy Portuguese piri piri chicken, saucy Haitian griot, crunchy Italian cannoli and perfectly crisped Levantine falafel. Here’s where to eat and what to order in Montréal right now.
Dig into a Portuguese chicken poutine at Ma Poule Mouillée
Poutine is the Québec national dish (it’s also probably Canada’s most well-known dish, but people in this province tend to balk at the maple leaf claiming its treasured snack). While Montréal has a few great places to eat poutine (Chez Claudette and La Banquise, for example), the fries-concoction is really more of a rural thing, best enjoyed at a greasy-spoon casse-croûte on the side of a highway or ski lodge. That said, leave it to Montréal to level up poutine with a spice of diversity. Case in poutine: the Portuguese chicken version at Ma Poule Mouillée.
The poutine is made with Portuguese roast chicken – a Montréal institution in its own right thanks to the influence of neighborhood greats Coco Rico and Romados – chouriço, São Jorge cheese and piri piri spiced gravy.
How to get it: Lines stretch out the door all day long for either the poutine or chicken, so be prepared to wait. When your order’s ready, take it to nearby Parc La Fontaine and enjoy it on a picnic blanket.
Sink your teeth into a smoked meat sandwich at Schwartz’s
A Montréal-style smoked meat sandwich from Schwartz’s Deli is the quintessential city dish. Brought here by Eastern-European Jewish immigrants in the early 20th century and part-owned by the Canadian icon that is Céline Dion, the smoked meat at Schwartz’s is made without chemical enhancers and comes as fatty as you like (tip: don’t get lean).
Order the sandwich with slices of meat piled high between two pieces of rye, or get a plate of cold cuts to share. A Cott’s Black Cherry soda to wash it all down is obligatory.
How to get it: Sitting at a shared table with fellow hungry patrons is part of the Schwartz’s experience, but be prepared to line up along St Laurent, aka The Main. The takeout counter next door to the original restaurant is quicker if you can’t wait.
Enjoy a perfectly balanced bite at Falafel Yoni
Falafel is everywhere these days, but the tiny, freshly fried balls of chickpeas at Falafel Yoni are a cut above. Their falafel pita comes loaded with red cabbage, Mediterranean salad and tahini is the perfect combination of crunchy, savory, soft, fresh and the perfect level of spicy (if you ask for hot sauce).
The sabich sandwich – a smoother, sweeter pita with eggplant – is also unbelievably good.
How to get it: The first Falafel Yoni started in the Mile End, but it has since expanded to Verdun and Atwater Market.
Grab a steaming-hot bagel from St-Viateur Bagel
If you want to make a Montrealer passionate, ask them about their favorite spot to get a bagel. Only two answers are acceptable: St-Viateur Bagel and Fairmount. Honestly, they’re both delicious, but St-Viateur, first opened in 1953, takes the cream cheese for this writer.
Boiled in honey water and much lighter than the donut-like monstrosities in New York, these bagels are best eaten steaming hot straight from the paper bag, or perhaps with a schmear of whipped cream cheese. Order a sesame seed bagel for the best chance of it being hot and fresh from the oven.
How to get it: St-Viateur Bagel has several bakeries and cafes around the city, but the most authentic are the two locations on the Mile End street of the same name. You’ll probably have to wait a while if you want anything other than the straight-up bagel.
Cross the grocery aisles for griot at Marché Méli-Mélo
Well before Caribbean restaurants became a craze in Montréal, Marché Méli-Mélo was serving stellar Haitian griot from a counter in the back of an unassuming Villeray supermarket. Opened more than 30 years ago by owners Jean-Michel Baptiste and Jean-Marie Toussaint, the marinated pork griot here is city-famous and comes with a selection of sides such as rice and beans, plantains or spiced onions.
How to get it: Cross the grocery store aisles to the back and order from the counter. You’ll have to take it to go as there’s nowhere to sit inside. Parc Jarry is a terrific option if you’re looking for a spot to eat.
Taste cannolis at Pasticceria Alati-Caserta
Impress locals with your knowledge of this under-the-radar pastry shop in Petite Italie. Open since 1968, Pasticceria Alati-Caserta’s pastries here are to die for, especially their crunchy sweet cannoli. They have various flavors like pistachio and gianduja (hazelnut/chocolate filling) and come in big or small.
If you’re celebrating, the cakes here are also incredible.
How to get it: The small pastry shop is located on quiet Rue Dante. Order from the counter and take it to go.
Snack on cheese crowns from Cheskie’s
This legendary kosher heimishe (Yiddish for warm and homey) bakery in Outrement unites the community around its delicious sweets and breads. On any given day, you’ll hear Yiddish, French, Spanish and English in the queue at Boulangerie Cheskie’s.
Many come for the chocolate babka, but trust me and try the cheese crowns – a shortbread pastry filled with crumbly cheese.
How to get it: The bakery is closed for shabbat from 3pm on Friday until 8am on Sunday.
Eat a couple of pork buns at Satay Brothers
We challenge you to find a better pork bao bun on this side of the Pacific Ocean. Satay Brothers, the Singaporean street food restaurant founded by Alex and Mat Winnicki, makes their buns with a hulking cut of pork belly and a perfectly fluffy steamed bao bun. And hoisin sauce, cilantro and cucumbers top things off. You’ll need at least two.
How to get it: Satay Brothers has a restaurant in St-Henri and a stall at Atwater Market.
Sit in the garden at Santropol and eat a Duluth
Santropol has been a mainstay near the foot of Mont Royal since 1976. The art-filled restaurant has plenty of tasty meals, but the Duluth sandwich is a must-try. It’s made with caramelized onions with honey, pear slices, cheddar cheese and arugula inside thick slices of pumpernickel bread.
How to get it: If the weather’s nice, sit in the beautiful garden out back. You may have to line up as tables fill up with students during the school year.
Have your mind blown by vegan sushi at Momo
The vegan sushi at Momo from chef Christian Ventura won’t leave you longing for fish and seafood. Carefully prepared with plant-based ingredients bursting with flavor, the “futomaki” and sashimi here are outstanding. The chic decor is great too, and it’s located on the edge of postcard-worthy park Carré St Louis.
How to get it: This restaurant is casual, but on the classier side, so wear something more than shorts and a T-shirt. Reservations are a smart idea.
