This month, the Estée Lauder Companies Inc. (ELC) presented an array of innovative research findings at the 81st Annual Meeting of the Society for Investigative Dermatology (SID) in Dallas, Texas. The event brought together leading experts in dermatology to explore the latest scientific developments, with ELC showcasing pioneering studies that could have notable future of skin care and personal care products.
Key research highlights
Cosmetic peptide penetration and assembly in human skin: A tag-free approach
Elham Tavasoli, PhD, Associate Director of Advanced Technology Pioneering at ELC, presented groundbreaking research on cosmetic peptide penetration. As detailed in ELC’s press release, “this is the first use of 3D OrbiSIMS and SRS to identify, track, and demonstrate the hierarchical assembly of cosmetic self-assembling peptides (SAPs) during skin permeation and their effect on skin mechanics,” and the study tracked the diffusion and hierarchical assembly of cosmetic peptides such as Palmitoyl-pentapeptide-4 and Palmitoyl-hexapeptide-12 in human skin.
The findings revealed significant enhancements in skin barrier function and hydration through the formation of stable hydrogels, marking a significant advancement in peptide-based skin care formulations. Specifically, “SAPs were shown to co-assemble into stable hydrogels when placed in contact with solutions of ECM components and chemical-specific imaging revealed skin barrier strengthening and increased water retention after SAP treatment,” the release confirmed.
Dichotomous attributes of BHT, vitamin E, and vitamin C as antioxidant and anti-glycation molecules in skin models
Nora Ruth, MS, Principal Scientist at ELC, discussed the dual roles of BHT, vitamin E, and vitamin C as both antioxidants and anti-glycation agents. This study highlighted how varying concentrations of these antioxidants could inhibit glycation—a key factor in skin aging—thus providing valuable insights for developing personalized skin care solutions that address oxidative stress and glycation concurrently.
As detailed in ELC’s press release, the study found that “synergy between modulation of oxidative stress and glycation prevention is dependent on the specific concentration and antioxidant power of the individual molecules,” and this finding “can inform fine-tuned approaches to formulating with active ingredients tailored to personalized skin care.”
miRNA-146a is a critical target associated with multiple biological pathways of skin aging
Klodjan Stafa, PhD, Associate Director of Advanced Technology Pioneering, presented research on the role of miRNA-146a in skin aging. The study demonstrated that the loss of miRNA-146a disrupts circadian rhythms and cellular repair processes, leading to accelerated aging.
However, treatment with an Adansonia digitata extract showed promise in restoring miRNA-146a levels, thereby enhancing skin resilience and reducing inflammatory responses. As reported in ELC’s press release, the study found that “that miR-146a is a key mediator of biological pathways related to fighting aging in skin cells; particularly associated with circadian rhythm, inflammation, and skin cell communication, damage repair and proliferation.”
The importance of cellular synchronization for skin health & integrity
Nadine Pernodet, PhD, Senior Vice President, Bioscience, Advanced Technology Pioneering and Lead Scientist, Estée Lauder Research Laboratories, emphasized the critical role of cellular synchronization and temporal rhythm in maintaining skin health and homeostasis in her presentation.
Her research found that treatment with tripeptide-32 helps resynchronize cells, enhancing their ability to resist damage and improve repair and recovery, thereby maintaining healthy skin. Ultimately, as reported in ELC’s press release, Pernodet’s study determined that “night is the natural time for skin to repair and recover, ultimately optimizing youthfulness.”
The importance of Nrf-2 technology combined with powerful collagen boosters to rebuild youthful skin and essential collagen: types I, III, and V
Jacqueline Trivero, Associate Director, Advanced Technology Pioneering, highlighted over three decades of research leading to the development of a blend of peptides, algae extract, and whey protein that significantly enhances collagen production in human dermal fibroblasts. Trivero’s research showed that incorporating an Nrf-2 activator with these collagen boosters increases the production of types I, III, and V collagen, which are essential for skin integrity.
As detailed in ELC’s press release, the study concluded that “this potent combination helps mature skin cells rebuild and rejuvenate their structure, leading to stronger, more efficient cells and visibly younger-looking skin.”
Macrocystis Pyrifera ferment reduces inflammatory mediators derived from sensory neurons and skin cells
Jaime Emmetsberger, PhD, Director, Advanced Technology Pioneering and Lead Scientist, Max Huber Research Laboratories, presented preclinical studies demonstrating that topical application of Macrocystis pyrifera ferment (MPF) for 24 hours significantly lowers the expression of several inflammatory mediators in human skin. MPF reduces inflammatory responses in sensory neurons, demonstrated by decreased release of inflammatory neuropeptides and cytokines in vitro.
Clinical testing showed that a multi-ingredient cream containing MPF reduced sensory irritation in a lactic acid sting test, indicating its effectiveness in mitigating sensory neuron activity and irritation. The study’s findings therefore confirmed that “the cream significantly diminished the sensory perception of irritants in a lactic acid sting test, suggesting that MPF helps mitigate SN activity and decrease irritation,” reported ELC’s press release.
Combined validated questionnaire and lactic acid sting test to reliably assess and evaluate cosmetic product efficacy on sensitive skin.
Qihong Zhang, PhD, Principal Scientist, Research & Development Clinical Testing, discussed a cohort study utilizing a combination of a validated questionnaire and lactic acid sting test (LAST) to distinguish sensitive skin (SS) from non-sensitive skin (NSS) subjects. The study found a correlation between LAST scores and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in individuals with sensitive skin.
The efficacy of a lipid-rich matrix system (LRMS) in normalizing sensitive skin conditions was also assessed, demonstrating its ability to improve barrier function and reduce sensitivity. Zhang’s use of “the SS questionnaire, together with LAST, demonstrated segmentation of a sub-set of SS subjects with disrupted barriers in an Asian population,” and “the LRMS also showed it can alleviate some sensitive skin symptoms and help to normalize skin conditions,” ELC’s press release confirmed.
Implications for B2B cosmetic and personal care product manufacturers
These findings underline the critical role of advanced research and development in the cosmetics industry. By leveraging cutting-edge technologies and scientific insights, ELC is setting new benchmarks for product efficacy and innovation.
As the demand for scientifically-backed skin care products grows, research advancements like ELC’s can provide a strategic advantage for B2B stakeholders looking to stay ahead in the competitive cosmetics and personal care product markets.
